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Parks Machine No. 10


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DISCLAIMER:   Information posted by Old Fashioned Farm is done solely as a public service.  Old Fashioned Farm, its suppliers or contributors do not warrant the accuracy of the information contained herein nor is it responsible for any errors or omissions and assumes no liability for its use. This information is not intended as, or to be used as, a replacement for the original manufacturer instructions, but rather information which may be helpful to others.

 

I would like to start by saying this  machine is being restored for use and not static display. If necessary, we will make modifications when we think it improves the performance or safety of the machine or it extends the life of the components. Normally, the modifications we incorporate are found on other, normally later,  models of Parks machines so the structure does not vary from the Parks philosophy.

 

 We are fortunate to have an operational Parks No. 12 Cabinet Shop Special in the shop. The No.10 and No.12 Cabinet Shop Specials have the same base unit. They both include a circular rip and crosscut saw, 16-inch band saw and 6-inch jointer, but the No.12 also includes a 13-inch lathe and shaper. Both machines were available with an optional mortising attachment. Due to their similarity, it is possible to compare the two in order to determine what could be done to improve the No.10 and yet retain the Parks design.

 

First we decided it was not necessary to repaint the machine. The machine has very little rust and the original paint  applied by Parks still  covers a large part of the surface.  Also, the Parks Woodworking decal is clearly visible and any attempt to work around it could result in damage. In our opinion this was an unnecessary risk. So we will do a thorough cleaning once restoration is complete.

 

 Fortunately most of the bearings were tight on the jack-shafts. These bolts were originally tightened and then the open area of the slot filled with Babbitt.. Adjustment of these bearings would result in the need to remove and refill these slots.

 

  The first modification was the addition of a key and key-way in the table elevating mechanism.  The key-way prevents the bar that lifts the table from turning. In its original condition, the bar would rotate 360 degrees.  We cut a 3/8 inch key-way in the elevating screw and then drilled and tapped a hole in the support bracket for the key. This modification is consistent with the design used on the No.12.

 

   We found multiple instances where the frame was not completely square. Normally Parks allowed adjustments with a series of slots. However in two locations we found holes that were not adjustable and had no provision for adjustments. We removed these frame pieces and cut adjustment slots in the metal. This allowed us to make sure the frame was perfectly square.

   


When we received the machine, the hand crank for the table elevation screw was very stiff. We elected to drill a small hole in the support bracket over the hand crank shaft which will allow us to oil the shaft. Again this is consistent with the design on the No. 12.





 

We added leveling screws in the lifting bar. There was a place for the screws, but they were missing. It is obvious the bar is not level and since it is welded to the elevating screw this is the only way we have to make sure the equal pressure is applied to the table when lifted.

 

 The table supports were replaced. The machine had two carriage bolts installed. One of these bolts was bent and the head damages. We removed the carriage bolts and replaced them with two bolts with square heads. 

 

  When the N0. 10 was ordered from Parks, it was listed without a motor. Our Number 10 had a 3-phase motor that turned a 3-inch flat belt.  In order to return this machine to service, we decided to replace the 3-phase motor with a dual voltage single phase motor and change the flat pulley to dual v-belt pulleys.

 

   The power requirement for the No.10 is normally 1 to 1 1/2 hp. We found an acceptable dual voltage motor at the local farm supply.  We were disappointed to learn that when the motor was set for 110 V it would not power the shafts and blew the circuit breaker after a few seconds. We changed the power to 220 V and the system operated correctly.


   The levers used to shift the belts from one pulley to another were bent.  We removed the levers and straightened them in the blacksmith shop.

 

    The original band saw tires were worn and needed to be replaced. We elected to use neoprene instead of rubber for longer life. The band saw wheels are 16-inches in diameter and 1-inch wide.

 

     We also replaced the two phenolic blocks on the band saw’s upper guide. The lower guide uses guide blocks and does not have phenolic blocks. We fabricated replacement guide blocks from brass. When we got the machine, the guide blocks were made of wood. There is noting to indicate this was a Parks design.

 

We replaced the grease cups on the upper and lower band saw shafts with Zerk fittings. We believe this increases  lubrication and prevents wear.

 

 

 







I elected to manufacture a riving knife and saw guard based on examples found in several Parks Machine Catalogs.  The basis for this decision was that on this machine, when the band saw is operating the table saw or jointer will be running. This is not uncommon. In fact, the Four in One has all machines operating when it is powered.